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Education Of Shape & Cut

Diamond Shape

OMI Jewelry has a large variety of loose diamonds, varying in shapes, size, and other characteristics, not listed on the website. All diamonds, if not already GIA certified, can be certified by GIA upon request. GIA is one of the most prominent laboratories to certify loose diamonds.

Loose diamonds can be purchased separately.

All diamonds are different, even ones that are the same shape. Therefore, each diamond cut has different characteristics, which are unique to its shape, that determine the quality for each shape.

Round Cut Diamond

Round diamonds are the most popular diamonds, as well as the most coveted. In addition to being the most popular and researched shape, a round diamond will typically give you more flexibility in terms of balancing cut, color, and clarity grades while still getting the fire and brilliance you want. The round diamond consists of 58 facets, and can sometimes give off a larger look than it actually is. The round diamond is truly the classiest and timeless shape in diamonds.

Hearts and Arrows in a round diamond

Requests for hearts and arrows in a round diamond have increased in recent years. What does hearts and arrows mean? A diamond that has the top facet or "table facet" exactly perpendicular to the bottom of the diamond or "pavilion" and has its other facets precisely aligned with excellent symmetry, may show patterns that look like arrows from the top and hearts from the bottom. Generally it will need to be viewed loose under a gem scope to see the pattern very well.

Princess Cut Diamond

The princess cut diamond is the second most popular diamond. The face-up shape, or the top, of the princess cut is square or rectangular and the profile or side-on shape is similar to that of an inverted pyramid with four beveled sides. Princess diamonds can vary greatly on how square or rectangular they are cut. For ideal cut proportions, please visit the “Cut” section of the Education tab. The princess cut diamond can also be referred to as the “square modified brilliant”. 

Choosing the right shape for princess cut diamonds can sometimes be a challenge, but here are some tips; if you are attracted to a princess diamond shape that is more square than rectangle, then look for length-to-width ratios between 1 MM and 1.05 MM. Alternatively, if you prefer, or are attracted to more of a rectangular shape, you’re looking for length-to-width ratios greater than 1.10 MM.

In relation to the price, a princess cut diamond is usually slightly cheaper than a round cut diamond of the same carat weight because it retains about 80% of the rough diamond, as opposed to the round brilliant which retains only about 50% of the rough. The ability to retain more crystal weight makes this shape popular among diamond cutters.

Emerald Cut Diamond

The emerald cut diamond falls into the category of fancy cut diamonds. The emerald diamond is unique in its nature because of its pavilion. The pavilion is the bottom portion of the diamond, and it extends from the girdle to the culet. The pavilion in the emerald diamond is cut with rectangular facets, which creates an interesting optical appearance. Due to its larger open table, the emerald diamond’s rectangular shape showcases the diamonds clarity. Like the princess cut diamond, the emerald cut diamond varies in how rectangular in shape it is cut.

If you are in the market for a classic emerald cut shape, here are the ratios to abide by: look for the ratio between 1.30 MM and 1.40 MM.

Asscher Cut Diamond

The Asscher cut diamond, also falling in the category of fancy cut diamonds, was created by the Royal Asscher family, hence the name. The beautiful Asscher cut originally was created to have 58 facets, but was later reinvented to have an extra break in the diamond's pavilion giving it an astounding 74 facets. The Asscher cut diamond can be viewed as similar to the emerald cut diamond, with the difference being that the Asscher has a squarer cut. The Asscher cut diamond is famously known for its superior light performance when compared to other step cut diamonds.

The ideal cut for the Asscher cut diamond has a length to width ratio between 1.00 MM and 1.05 MM.

Marquise Cut Diamond

The only diamond that actually represents the shape of a diamond, the marquise cut diamond truly maximizes the carat weight you are getting, providing you with a diamond that looks a lot larger than it actually is. The marquise cut diamond is elliptical in shape with pointed ends. Like many other diamonds that provide an optical illusion, the marquise cut diamond creates an illusion of longer and leaner fingers. Marquise cut diamonds, because of their cut, are more prone to showing more color and inclusions in comparison to other cut diamonds. An important note for marquise cut diamonds, make sure to protect the points because they can sometimes chip.

The ideal cut for the marquise cut diamond is a length to width ratio between 1.75 MM and 2.25 MM.

Oval Cut Diamond

Oval cut diamonds are a cross between the marquise diamond and the brilliant round cut diamond. Like the marquise cut diamond, the oval cut diamond is elliptical in shape, and helps to elongate the fingers. Like the round cut diamond, the oval cut diamond has similar brilliance that shines through. Well-proportioned oval cuts should have a minimal bow tie effect.  A bow tie is a dark area across the center width of many fancy shapes—a result of varying pavilion angles.  Bow ties show as light return that is blocked by the head of the viewer.

The ideal cut for an oval cut diamond is a length-to-width ratio between 1.33 MM and 1.66 MM.

Radiant Cut Diamond

The radiant cut diamond is very similar to the princess cut, square modified brilliant, diamond. They are square or rectangular mixed cuts with angled corners. The radiant was created to be an alternative to an emerald cut diamond. Radiant cut diamonds are also known as “Cut Cornered Modified Brilliant”. The nature of a radiant cut diamond helps with the concentration of color.

If you are looking for a radiant cut diamond shape that has a squarer facade, then you should be looking for length-to-width ratios between 1.0 MM and 1.05 MM. Alternatively, if you desire a radiant cut diamond with more of a rectangular shape, then you should be looking for length-to-width ratios greater than 1.10 MM.

Pear Cut Diamond

Pear cut diamonds are well known for their classy and brilliant elegance. The pear cut diamond is a mix between the marquise cut diamond and an oval cut diamond. The pear cut diamond is also referred to as a tear drop cut because of its single point and rounded edge. Because of it similarity to the oval and marquise cut diamond, the pear cut diamond is also known to elongate the fingers. The pointed end of the pear cut diamond should be protected to prevent possible chipping. Pear cuts can sometimes have a prominent bow tie area.

For the most traditional pear-shaped diamond, look for a length-to-width ratio between 1.45 MM and 1.75 MM.

Heart Cut Diamond

The heart diamond can be seen as taking a step further to symbolize your love. Heart cut diamonds are brilliant cuts with curved lobes that stem from the center cleft. Color can be more visible in hearts, especially in the lobe areas.  Hearts may also show a bow tie. Fancy shapes like ovals, marquises, hearts, and pears will have bow ties of varying degrees, and it is best to avoid excessively deep or shallow stones.  Look for hearts with balanced and symmetrical proportions.  A defined cleft with even lobes and a sharp point are generally preferred.

If you are looking for an ideal cut diamond, then you should be looking for a length to width ratio between 0.90 MM and 1.10 MM.

Cushion Cut Diamond

Cushion cut diamonds definitely stand out because of their truly unique cut. An alternative name for a cushion cut is pillow cut . This is because of its rounded corners and larger facets, which ultimately helps to increase the diamond's brilliance and shine. The larger facets showcase the diamond's clarity very well. Cushion cut diamonds are available in different shaped cuts, ranging from a squarer facade to a more rectangular one, depending on your preference or taste.

The ideal cut measurement for a cushion cut diamond for a squarer cushion, a length to width ratio between 1.0 MM and 1.05 MM. For a more rectangular cushion cut diamond, the ideal measurement is a length to width ratio greater than 1.15 MM.


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